Yes, it happens. Hopefully, not often.
Bores and Other Pests
Bores are most prevalent in the Midwest and on the East Coast. Bores hatch in
the spring and chew the leaves leaving marks on the margins of the leaves. Then
they bore down through the leaf leaving a long wet streak. Once they reach the
rhizome, they gorge themselves.
Simply squash bores you find on leaves. A solution of Murphy’s Oil Soap (one
part soap, nine parts water) can be sprayed as an organic remedy. Cygon 2-E
Spray insecticide every two weeks from spring until mid-summer is another
remedy.
If you notice damage from snails or slugs, bait these pests with whatever method
you prefer. Aphids, thrips, and whiteflies can be controlled by Cygon-2-E or
Malathion.
Spots
Always remove old dead leaves and cut off any leaf (or part of the leaf) that
has yellow or brown spots. Excessive moisture or humid weather causes leaf spot
problems. A spraying program of two alternated fungicides will handle this
dilemma.
Rot
Excessive moisture can sometimes lead to outbreaks of bacterial rot. Remove the
rotting tissue as soon as possible. Armed with a spoon, clear soil away and
scoop out the rotting tissue while the plant remains in the ground. Then douse
with a one-part bleach and nine parts water solution.
If necessary, dig up the entire plant and remove the rotting tissue. Drench the
wounds with the bleach and water solution and allow them to dry for several days
before covering with soil.
In June 2002, uncharacteristic torrential rains ravaged Texas and caused rot in
a section of our irises. I had just had major surgery on both of my forearms and
could not physically deal with the rot the way I knew to. So, with one arm in a
sling and the other in a brace, I opened one gallon of bleach and poured half of
it into a five-gallon bucket and filled the bucket to the top with water from a
hose. Then I was able to negotiate the bucket and drench the irises down the
row. Because I could not remove the damaged tissue, we lost perhaps a quarter of
the infected area. The object of telling you this action is to say that if you
cannot remove the rotting tissue, AT LEAST drench the infected areas with a
bleach solution – it works.
Not Blooming
Simply put - full sun, good drainage, fertilizer, and no overcrowding.
Occasionally, a late frost can harm potential blooms and abnormal heavy rains.
It is said that most irises will not bloom the first year after being planted.
At Wild Prairie Farm, this has never been the case. Probably because we add
compost and organic matter regularly, and fertilize when we plant and before
bloom season, and of course, our winter season is mild compared to the rest of
the country.
Change Of Color
Iris do not change color – it is an impossibility. In hybridizing, mutants or
sports happen, but this is another subject. The best explanation is
overcrowding, meaning, more vigorous varieties will tend to invade the space of
the less vigorous. As well, when digging up your iris to divide the clumps, you
may leave a part of the rhizome behind, thus mixing your varieties up a bit. If
you are attempting to keep your iris separated and identified, be sure to dig up
the entire clump.
Buds Unopened
Just before bloom time your irises are growing rapidly and are very tender. An
unexpected cold snap can cause buds to not open.
Wrinkled Leaves
Wrinkles happen – but not to worry! When the foliage appears like corrugated
cardboard, we call this “pineappling.” The cause is unknown and it’s not
contagious – only unsightly to some (I think it’s interesting!). Increases will
grow fine and not be affected. Some theorize that this stunted growth happens as
a result of strange weather conditions.
Growth
Irises are not created equal. Like a person, each iris is unique, with it’s own
timing, rate of growth, reproduction, and personality. Generously sprinkle with
the elements of your environment and there is no comparison worth making. One of
the joys of growing irises is to learn the growing habits of the varieties you
have in your special environment.
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